Thursday, January 29, 2009

The BDE

Our trip to Ocean Park on the south east side of Hong Kong Island; having read many places that it is a "must see" we were surprised to arrive and find ourselves at more of an amusement park, where we were definitely the oldest ones there without kids.  We managed to have a blast...not too hard when you have pandas, roller coasters, and adults mauling cartoon character mascots for pictures.  It's so interesting how animated characters here are true celebrities...I think the key to international super-stardome here may just involve me sporting a  costume...some sort of recognizable cartoon character.  I'm up for suggestions, but I'm thinking of going old school with Grimace. 

The ride over to the park is in a little tiny gondola--so fun!  Ted got his hair did.

The view's pretty nice!!  Pretttty, pretttty nice.

My favorite animal of all time--have you ever seen the cubs?!!! You may have caught a glimpse of  recent headlines about the Beijing panda who attacked a human for the third time.  First I would like to say in the panda's defense--Beijing is whack, who wouldn't be freaking out if trapped there??  My favorite part of the story was the victim #3's accounts (none of the 3 was seriously injured); the first two were pretty reasonable stories--fell into the pen, etc--the last one was about a drunken European tourist that jumped into the pen to try to hug the panda. The panda wasn't feelin the love, so he bit, and in a wierd twist, the tourist bit back.

Hoping to make it to Chengdu, the location of the infamous panda center where you can actually pet them and also where to see pandas in the wild.

I think this is quite possibly the best roller coaster ever--amazing to ride at sunset and see the outer islands.
Just your regular Thursday afternoon

Pretty cute little guy!

Jellyfish!  I ate one!  And yes, I'm still bragging about it

More jellies; these were my favorite...along with the pink glittery ones I used to wear with socks in pre-k.

This is as close as I EVER hope to get to a shark...while I love shark week more than any other week of TV, I remain convinced that swimming in the ocean is a gamble with your life.  Still, it has been very sad to learn about the abuse of sharks in Asian waters and see the disturbing footage; because shark fin soup is considered a delicacy (once only enjoyed by the emperors), it is of course a popular status symbol these days for the chinese diner. Because there are laws about how many sharks you can kill and the bodies have to be accounted for, hunters just cut the fins off while the shark is alive and throw it back into the water to drown--so cruel.  No shark fin soup for this one...that's just upping the odds for bad karma if I were ever to have a run in!

Coolest aquarium ever

From our rooftop at night

Sunday, January 25, 2009

Out With the Rat, In With The Ox

The temples around town are all buzzing.  The one above is the Man Mo temple right up the street from us.  At the new year, people pay homage to different deities & relatives, though not so much religious.  They believe that the more you show gratitude, the more $$ you will gain in the coming year.  It is difficult to explain, but there seems to be a general feeling of a "gotta get mine" mentality--gotta get the most money, gotta be the first one in the line to get on the subway (even though it doesn't mean that you are going to get there any quicker!) gotta have the coolest liscence plate....little sidebar:  people pay oodles for personalized liscense plates, like "cool" or especially for the luckiest number to the chinese, 8.  Most paid for a liscence plate to date is 13 million.

Inauguration night; we stayed up to make it to the only bar close by showing the inauguration, at 1 am...and we were on CNN!  

The Chinese Perm

Michael Bolton, Jessie Spano, (Colletta Jones?).  Not setting any fashion trends these days in the west perhaps, but still showing strong influence in the east.

BBQ, Babes, & Ground Hurkeys

The hospitality of the students at Ted's school (and in Hong Kong in general) has been  exceptional.  This was the chinese barbecue we were invited to, given at the apartment of a classmate, Isabella, self proclaimed babe and former model.  The modeling photos pasted about the apartment would keep me from putting her in the "modest" category, but she was a wonderful hostess!
Here we go with the food again...I know I tend to write a lot about it, but it really never ceases to amaze me.  When we arrived at the apartment, we were first surprised to find that we had entered a gateway into 3rd world living conditions...apparently, this water-covering-the-floor, grease-spattered walls, and animal carcass left overs in the kitchen is pretty much the norm for a student our age.  This did not bode well for the dinner we were about to have, and as we stepped out onto the balcony patio (sigh of relief there was outdoor space) it became evident this was going to be an adventurous night of eating once again.  First up, baby chicks on a stick. See below--Ted, so brave, ate one of course.  Our friend Salvadore wasn't so sure...
Close up, you can see these babies are fresh from the egg, and you are supposed to eat them head, bones, and all.  Some chose to stick with a liquid diet...that would be me.

Another crowd pleaser was the duck tongue

Ted and I are discussing how the Chinese assign themselves American names, and how entertaining their choices can be; we've got an Ace, a Calvin, and I just heard of a Cinderella. Notice the exterior of the building here; although this building wasn't particularly nice anyway,  even the nice ones in central are very poorly cared for on the exterior.  You could have 5 star restaurants on the first two floors and then from there up the building looks like it is corroding.  Lots of laundry hanging out the windows too.  We got a warning that if we were too loud, neighbors would start throwing things out the windows at us...this was a titch worrisome, because it was a 22 story building. 
Liquid diet eventually lead to model posing and ground hurkeys.  Thank you Elise for your introduction of that move...while it was the hit of the night, my knee was not so grateful.

Tuesday, January 13, 2009

Friday, January 9, 2009

Nothing Like a Little Buddhist Bean Curd

Our meal at the buddhist monastery on Lanteau, while it looks a little scary, these monks could cook!  Bean curd is really just tofu (although it sounds like we are being much more adventurous if I keep it bean curd, so from here on out I am going with that).  This was 2 different types of bean curd, one with corn and one with zuccini.  The other is bok choy with mushrooms and soup was a mystery--as you can see they did include trusty spring rolls--watch out Paula Dean, the monks of Lanteau definitely know how to deep fry!

The monastery


Love these little lotus plants!

Buddha...booya!

Gon-DOLA ridin'
From the top of Lanteau Peak back to HK, about 20minutes.  You can guess how I felt about crossing a large body of water in one of these...beautiful though!
Elise, I'm saving my hat collection for you!  These were 3 dolla (holla!) from a little booth at the top...I think I am losing all fashion sense


View from the monastery



They were not messing around at the monastery when they built the big Buddha!
He sits on a hill overlooking the mountains of Lanteau Island, a ferry ride away from HK.





Happy Birthday Elise!

We hope you have a blast and do a couple chinese take-out prank calls late night in our honor--we wish we were home to celebrate!  While Elise will be accepting gifts of all kinds, we will be embracing the Chinese New Year by receiving gifts of only one kind--the traditional gift of money is presented to couples and children at this time of year in the little red baggies you see below.  We are happy to provide the red bags, they are everywhere!  We are really just trying to embrace the culture, do as the locals do, and stay true to the traditions of our environment.....






New Address in the LKF


Views from our new place!
WIth glass windows and very questionable photography skills from your truly, they aren't the best, but you get the idea!



Living on what is essentially the Bourbon Street of Hong Kong was a blast for a month, but for the next two, you can find us on a quieter street a couple blocks away:
38 Icehouse St.
#403
Central
Hong Kong
Still about 300 square feet, but with nice views and steps away from all the action, so do not be deterred potential visitors, we are still in the midst of it all!  
You can see pics of apartment interior on web:
www.icehouse.com.hk



Wednesday, January 7, 2009

Beijing-a-ding-ding

10 Days in Beijing; with Ted in lectures and business trips, I was picturing my time there to be much like Scarlett Johannsen's in "Lost In Translation"--wandering about in awe, exploring the city, finding a little restaurant I would frequent, and giving a 5 star karaoke performance.  

The only thing that came to fruition was the karaoke.  

Beijing is not easy to get around peeps. NO ONE speaks English (which came as a shock after 3 spoiled weeks in Hong Kong), not even the cabbies could understand an address written in chinese by the hotel concierge.  Getting anywhere is extremely difficult and being with someone who is fluent is crucial.  While Ted has a few phrases mastered, they didn't really get us anywhere. 

(Sidenote on learning the language, to give an idea of difficulty: compared with our 26 characters, Chinese has 20,000, along with 9 intonations that can change the meaning of the word, so if your pronounce it the wrong way, you change the meaning.)

The feeling that I got ripped off--multiple times--is strong to quite strong.

A Beijing tradition: Hot Pot.  Basically the Chinese equivalent to fondue, with food cooked in seasoned broth instead of oil.  There was everything from carpaccio to fish balls (a favorite around here) to a whole egg.  I took one for the team in the dumb american department when i boiled my whole egg instead of cracking it in the broth.

We stayed at the Commune by the Great Wall--check it out! www.communebythegreatwall.com
Highly recommend it!

The section of the Great Wall that we hiked close to Badaling but avoided the tourist area
Lots of comments on this hat...good news, it could be yours, for the right price.  I will warn you in advance that our haggling skills have quite improved since being here, so it will take a brave one to step to this...

Pictures don't do justice!

Ted at the infamous Silk Market.  It is here that every major brand is knocked off, highly illegal, but one of the biggest tourist draws.  Some of the guys on Ted's program told us that you should ask for and not pay more than 10% of their asking price for anything.  It was pretty exhausting--not just the haggling, but making your way through the hundreds of aisles (there are 7 floors) getting grabbed and yelled at--"Hey lay-deeee I tink I know you" and "SHHHHH, come hee and I give you seec-wet pwice"

Ted had a suit made, which turned out great, and I battled it out with a young girl for some fake Uggs (I had to have them for the wall Lindsay, I can hear you gasping now).  I finally had to leave it to Ted when she started calling us crazy and accused us of lying about other prices. Apparently, the go-to move for selling fake Uggs is pinching a piece of the "real" sheep's wool from the inside of the boot and burning it with a lighter so you can smell that it is authentic... real or fake, didn't smell so sweet.  

Made our way out after getting the fakes for $350 yuan (about $35) which was still too much, but starting price was $2300.   Just a heads up to booth 108, the "Burberry plaid" shouldn't accompany the Max Mara label

Don't think I need to explain this one

This is a motorcycle with a metal cab covering the bike--fun little ride--there were even curtains in the back, bless him.  Really trying to set himself apart with some ambiance.

Ted eating a self-heating meal....questionable? I thought so

Here I am, at the Forbidden City, diving into the mass of people, trying to bump up to the front row of the rail guarding the throne at the Hall of Supreme Harmony (where the Emperors were crowned--anyone seen The Last Emperor?  All filmed here)  I'm usually not one to feel the need to edge my way to the front, but it kind of becomes a competition when you've been pushed around long enough.  About half way through the pack I decide there's no way I can get to the front without losing an arm, so I just hold the camera over my head (Bonks style) and try to shoot a quick photo--only mid-capture, I got taken down by the tour group to my right--you get the idea from the slant of the photo.

The enormity of the Forbidden City is mind boggling--we were here for three and half hours and saw only the major points of interest--some people dedicate a full day and still don't squeeze it all in.  The walls are 30 feet tall, the enclosed city itself is about 960 yards long and 750 yards wide (so even bigger than Andrew and Allison's wedding), and 90 courtyards. Wasn't open to the public until 1925 when the last dynasty fell.

Entering the Forbidden City, you see behind Ted a huge portrait of Chairman Mao.  It is amazing to me that he is revered and worshipped here the way he is, being responsible for an estimated 70 million deaths during his rule in China--portraits, dollar bills, his picture is everywhere.  Guess you have to pretend to love him even if you don't--we learned that it was just before the '08 Beijing games that a student was released from prison after 18 years for throwing a paint bomb at his portrait...titch extreme.

Across the street you have Tiananmen Square, scene of the "June 4th Incident" as they call it here, referring to the massacre of peaceful protesting students in 1989 (i can't believe I don't remember it happening).  I don't want to bust out into a history lesson here (I have learned so much from the book you gave us Kristy, thank you!) there is obviously tons to read and see about it on google/you tube...that is, if you aren't in Beijing. 

In Beijing the government has banned access to anything published about the issue, and continues to downplay it--the government ignores that it ever happened, people speak of it cautiously, and memorials are not allowed. What is really amazing to me is that it is impossible to find any information or coverage of the incident if you google from there--and they JUST lifted a ban on wikipedia. Crazy/scary/communists!  

Just one little fact that I have to share: according the the government 200-300 people were killed at Tiananmen Square while the red cross reports 3000-4000...

The local hip hop bar

Please read the center work "ethic"
This was a wall at one of the most successful companies in China, Hui Yuan, a juice company that just sold to Coca-Cola.  

This was great Chinese Food at Da Dong, noted for Peking Duck.  Steered clear of the pigeon.

The Beijing Opera House--referred to as the Egg--you can see why, with the reflection in the surrounding pond--beautiful!

First karaoke--called KTV here (they hate anything japanese, so the name had to be changed).
I love KTV for many reasons:
  1. You have your own private room
  2. They supply tambourines, moroccas, and mini stage
  3. KTV reminds me of DTV, the dance tv station from Girls Just Want to Have Fun
  4. The songs that are offered in English are hilarious and random--this is Ted with our friends Eva and Salvadore doing "Hotel California"--worst karaoke pick of all time, but they do love a good ballad here, and they REALLY want you to sing it well.  Personally, I think they need a little dose of Tone & Matthilda's "Islands In the Stream"
First taste of Peking Duck--really good!  That's the head off to the side, which does make its way onto the serving plate--you know, they're all about presentation!

Just a LITTLE bit of a smog problem...
This is 2 pm in the afternoon at the Olympic Village, they have obviously really let themselves go after the summer games.  I think it is partly carbon emisions, partly human burping emissions--lots of belching going on here, nothing to be ashamed of--can be within inches of your face on the subway, not a big deal.  Some nasty stats on the cleanliness of Beijing:
  • If the particulate in the air (hang with me here, this is the amount of toxins per square meter) in the US reaches 50, there is a warning that goes out for children and seniors.  At any given time here, it's at 140.
  • China makes up 1/3 of the entire world's smoking population--which along with the smog, leads to a lot of people hacking up their lungs--which means the noise or sight of someone hawking a loogee (I almost got hit by one!) is about 1 every 3 minutes.  For real ya'll.
  • Children can and will use the bathroom on the side of the street or in public ashtrays (ok, I didn't see that, but I read it)
  • Ladies toilets are porcelain holes in the ground--with TP disposed of in little bins right there next to you--forgive me if that's TMI, but I'm still a little scarred from a few!

The Watercube was my favorite Olympic venue!  I love Phelps signs for sale everywhere.

Ted eating a street vendor treat on a stick--this was carameled crabapples, pretty safely played.
Also offered on a stick: seahorses, crickets, and scorpions...no dice!